Tag Archives: 22 LR

Common Suppressor Baffle Types

Recently we learned a little about suppressors. Now let’s look at the different types of baffles used in suppressors:

 

MonoCore Baffles

Solid core. Baffle is a core based on a solid piece of material with some sort of cuts/holes to cut gas and create turbulences:

 

Common monocore suppressors include the SilencerCo Sparrow SS and the Advanced Armament (AAC) Prodigy

 

K Baffles

 1- part baffle. One of the most effective designs for .22 caliber suppressors: 

  

 Common K baffle suppressors include the Gemtech Outback IID and the Huntertown Guardian SS.

M Baffles

These are 2-part Baffles, consisting of a 45º/60º cone and a spacer that get stacked up in sequence inside the suppressor:

   

This baffle type isn’t too common these days, but it’s a pretty clever design. Common M baffle suppressors include Coastal P-22 (shown above).

Omega Baffles 

The Omega Baffle is a newer design concept that improves on the M baffle design to utilize a one-piece baffle that still performs at a high level. Some manufacturers such as SilencerCo and Surefire have recently updated popular suppressor designs to embrace this style of baffle core. 

 

The SWR Spectre and Surefire 22-A are common suppressors that use omega baffles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to make your 10/22 look Scary (good)

Recently I was looking at my basic 10/22 and decided to perform a few upgrades- mostly cosmetic upgrades that do not change the rifle, hence the term cosmetic.  Hoplophobes sometimes refer to these as “Evil or Scary Features” – which is ludicrous because inanimate objects such as firearms are not capable of having characteristics like evil or good intentions. Then again fear of inanimate objects is also considered irrational among the sane.

So let’s see what it takes to make this 10/22 look so scary that Shannon Watts  (aka Shannon Troughton aka sneaky astroturf-er) would have puppies if she ever saw it: 

Step 1- get a distinctive barrel and install it

Step 2- find some new furniture. The aftermarket selection for the 10/22 is vast. I shopped around for a long time and after agonizing over different approaches and price points decided to go with a Troy Industries chassis- the T-22 sport. While it’s on the high end of prices  it does include built-in Troy Battlesights. And it definitely looks scary. Eventually a box like this arrived for me:

Sweet! So what’s inside? I’m hoping for a bonus catalog of objects that look “evil” despite the fact that they could not possibly be evil:

Score! On to assembly…

Step 3- Two hex screws hold the chassis together. Remove them to begin the assembly process.

The T-22 chassis comes apart into two pieces- note that the rail is one continuous piece (scary good work Troy!)

Step 4- Don’t blink because the rest happens quickly- install the receiver assembly into the lower part of the chassis

Step 5- Now slide the rail/barrel shroud onto the receiver and replace the hex screws – voila!

Now that’s a nice looking rifle if I’ve ever seen one. Do you hear that barking in the distance? Sounds like new puppies are arriving somewhere in Indiana.

 

How to Replace the Barrel on a 10/22 Rifle


Recently I embarked on a little project – I wanted to take a stock Ruger 10/22 rifle- complete with the woodish stock as shown above- and give it some cajones. Simply stated, my initial goal was to make it look as scary as Sen. Feinstein (in any decade) looks without her Joker makeup on. Ok, maybe not that scary but at least scary enough to make Double-Barrel Biden blow all 18 pellets.

NOTE: Users assume all risk, responsibility and liability whatsoever for any and all injuries (including death), losses or damages to persons or property (including consequential damages), arising from the use of any data, whether or not occasioned by publisher’s negligence or based on strict liability or principles of indemnity or contribution. kR-15.Com neither assumes nor authorizes any person to assume for it any liability in connection with the use of any data.

First step- find a distinctive barrel. I ordered one from McGowen in MT. It took awhile since they made it custom from a blank, but it is beautiful:

  • heavy contour .920 – heavier barrels can get hotter before they lash- i.e. Better accuracy
  • stainless to add an element of distinction
  • flutes cut  into barrel to conduct heat more efficiently
  • threaded end- for resale value, compensator use, maybe even adding an AR style flash hider someday
  • Note: If you plan to change a barrel and reuse an existing stock be advised that you may need to remove material from the old stock- especially if you switch to a heavy contour barrel.or buy a new stock-there are many options out there at many price points.
  • Also be advised that you must check the chamber headspace after removing or changing any rifle barrel. More on this later.

So once you have a barrel, verify that safety is on and clear (unload) the rifle. Once the weapon is clear disassemble the rifle. Even if you needed the link to the manual you should now have the trigger group and bolt removed from the receiver. Remove the barrel retention screws from the v-clamp as shown below:

Once the screws are removed the v-clamp should also come off easily. Now you’re almost there- you can remove the existing barrel by pulling it forward. It will probably be a tight fit (that’s good) so don’t be afraid to work at this a little (a vice is helpful for this). The barrel will slide out and you should have a stripped receiver as shown with the barrel at bottom of the photo.

Now for the easy part- slide the new barrel into the receiver. Align it into the receiver on the barrel shank as shown here:

A snug fit is what you’re looking for and the flat edge of the barrel should line up with the barrel retention screw housings. Now replace the v-clamp and those retention screws- Brownells says you can tighten the v-clamp down to 45in-lb of torque.

Now replace the bolt, buffer and trigger group and you have one very important task to complete before you continue reassembly:

Check the headspace

This is very important for safety any time you alter the barrel (and thus the chamber) of a rifle. If the chamber headspace is out of spec the firearm is not safe to operate. This includes the risk of a KB- aka detonation. Don’t take a foolish risk- buy or borrow a set of go/no-go gauges to check the chamber. You can also ask your local gunsmith to check a chamber for you but it may cost you as much as the gauges.

They work quite simply- the gun should chamber the go gauge and should not chamber the no-go gauge. If both those events occur you passed the chamber check! Congratulations- now you should be all set to install the receiver assembly into a stock. That stainless barrel is a nice look, isn’t it?